Four long months ago I left behind the rich culture and historical traditions of the Gangetic plane of northern India and set off for the unparalleled landscapes of Nepal's Himalayas. I was headed to the roof of the world. After having just concluded four days observing rhinos, riding elephants, and tracking tigers in the terai jungle of Royal Chitwan National Park, I boarded a bus headed for Nepal's second city, Pokhara. A 5hr winding journey brought me to a lakeside town situated only 30km from the immensity of the Annapurna massif; 34 miles of jagged peaks towering 6, 7, and 8,000 meters above the level of the sea. When visibility allows this range provides a backdrop of epic grandeur leaving one with a not so subtle reminder of one's own quaint existence. The distance between me and Mt. Everest was shrinking.
I traveled to Pokhara with an American that I had met back a few days before in Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha. She was from Cali and had that laid back 'whateves' attitude that I, being a fellow 'westcoastie' knew all about. It was good to hear 'dude and 'awesome' again. I didn't know how long my stay in Pokhara was going to last. I only knew that November days were passing by quickly and the further into winter I reached, the colder that rarefied mountain air would become. I also knew of what tasty eye treats were waiting for me, seemingly, just a stones throw from nearly every vantage. The Annapurnas; an omnipotent phalanx of jagged splendor, standing over the entire region gloating with unreserved beauty. I knew to most folks this was their Everest. And in fact, had I seen them for myself, I probably would have been quite contained with little else thereafter. For those looking to get a closer look at the snow capped precipices, there are many world class treks in the area that lead backpack borne trekkers through the trees and over the hills for several days at a time towards each's own particular goal. A very popular route sends people on a 17 day circumambulation of the whole of the range, terminating in relative close proximity to the town. Another trek that takes about half that time leaves from Pokhara and journeys straight for the heart. In only a matter of days you find yourself within the inner sanctuary of the range and nestled within a 20,000ft cradle of rock and ice. Its a stabbing in and out route that has the added distinction of reaching ABC or Annapurna Base Camp. From this site, just as at the Everest Base Camp, professional mountaineers finalize their preparations and commence summit bids for several of the largest peaks on Earth. Nepal lays claim to nine of the world's 14 highest peaks, and this particular stretch owns the 10th highest, Annapurna I, and several other peaks of substantial importance and elevation. In all there are six peaks that rise above 23,oooft and numerous other lesser, yet similarly rewarding ascents for climbers to test their mettle. Its a mountaineering playground. The Annapurna peaks are among the world's most dangerous mountains to climb, with a fatality rate of around 40%, yet two thirds of all visitors to Nepal visit the Annapurna region to bare witness to its impressive beauty. I came to know these things prior to setting off on this adventure several months before. Long ago, though, I made the decision to save my energy and resources for the grand buffet that was the Everest trek; while in Pokhara restricting myself to the delicious appetizer nibble of meager day hikes. But I fully intended to see something while I was there, alas, weather had to play its unduly part.
I got off the bus on 10 November. It was cloudy. I remember on my last day in Chitwan a layer of clouds had rolled in and, subsequently, there was mention of rain. Unusual for the time of year, the dry season was at hand. "Damn," I thought, "I brought the clouds with me, they better disappear or I'm going to be pissed." Well, they never dispersed. My American travel buddy had ideas to go on an overnight trek to a popular high point with immaculate views but ended up scrapping the idea after a few days of cloudiness. So I was left to stare at gray skies. I knew full well that just beyond what I could see was what I wanted to see. A mandible of exposed incisors. White and sharp. Pretty maids lined all in a row. I really was hoping to lock eyes with the famous Machapuchare or also known as 'the fish tale' mountain. Its orientation within the range gives it prominence over the other more routine looking mountains, though standing at just under 7000m its considered a baby compared to its brethren. The peak itself is angular, rigid it resembles, perhaps, an inverted fish that was turned to granite. Sure, yeah, I can see it. Looks like this here . The mountain has been reserved off limits to climbing by the locals and it remains the only peak in Nepal left unconquered by man. An impenetrable sheet of gray kept this highly revered mountain from my gaze and no day hike was going to get me into range to give us a peak under. So I resigned to my bad fortune and turned my focus to soaking in the last few days of comfort and civilization that I had left. For in ten days I would be above 18,000ft and pushing my body further than I ever thought it could go.
To console myself over views unseen I occupied my time with morning croissants, tea, and the daily paper. The tea was good but not the Indian masala chai that I had come to crave. The croissants were tasty but not the chocolate filled award winner that I had found in Dharamsala, India. The news, well, I was riveted to the news. Nepal's political system is in terrible strife. Agitations led by the Maoists occur weekly. Everyday life for the Nepalese people has to come to learn to negotiate the current political climate on that given day. Some days there are road blocks; some days there strikes or 'bandhs', usually of the transportation sector. All means of transit gets shut down for an entire day when a bandh is called in order to force political action in Kathmandu. All this agitation gets set up by the Maoist organization. The Maoists are a communist political group that formed around 1994 to oppose the then current establishment, the centuries old Monarchy. Nepal was a kingdom at the time but was suffering from upheaval. The Maoist movement led a decade long "People's War" that eventually gave birth to a brand new system of democratic governorship. The popular Maoists promptly won the majority of seats in the newly formed Assembly through a democratic vote on 10 April, 2008. They lasted all of a year in power. In May of last year a coalition of all the major political parties formed and toppled the Maoists, barring them from any governmental duties. Today negotiations happen daily between the various political groups, and the Maoists, still with very large numbers in support, are on the outside looking in though are still throwing their weight around. The baby government is working on finalizing a new constitution for the country. A deadline was set long ago and has hereby lapsed several times; the latest target date was for right about now. The Maoist have influence over great numbers and when they feel there is not enough progress being made on a particular issue then a round of agitations are called and the country is effectively shut down for a given length of time. Upon reading and learning these things I became uneasy over the very real possibility of disruption of my upcoming travel. I needed to get to Kathmandu. I also had to take a flight out of the capitol out to the Everest trekking region. The possibility existed that a buy a flight and then miss it due to transportation difficulties. Or I could be grounded all together. I needed to stay on top of developments.
Also in the news was weather. Cloudy for the whole week. Rats. Then I caught an article in the international section that finally gave me insight to my cloud problem. Apparently there was a typhoon spinning and twirling its self off the west coast of India. By the time I had reached Pokhara it had already made landfall and was dumping unprecedented amounts of rain on northwest India. I had a some travel friends in Rajasthan, the desert, and they were giving me reports that rain was falling in areas that hadn't seen precipitation in ten years. Basically all of India was covered in cloud. Held in place by the northern great barrier that is the Himalayan mountain range. So all was clear to me now, even if the views weren't, and the storm was predicted to have dissipated by the end of the week. So I turned my attention to Kathmandu.
Wish I had seen this
or this
Machapuchra(fish tale) - the pointy one on the left
Then Annapurna III, IV, II from left to right.
I was staying in a guesthouse in the small collection of houses right on the lake bottom right. I climbed to this very spot on a day hike and couldn't see past the first hill.
This is Dhualagiri
Looking to the northwest from another highpoint near Pokhara. The 7th highest mountain in the world.
Cambodia today:
It's hot. Its pushing 95 Fahrenheit plus. It kinda has an Eastern Washington midsummer feel. Its only getting hotter too. April will be the hottest month before the rains come to flood the whole plain and sustain life for another year. Tomorrow I will make my first visit to Ankor Wat. I think a three day pass is all that I can afford. I have a personal motorbike so I will be able to get to the more distant temples with ease. I am also looking into my visa run which I must do on by the 18th. I might go to the northern border through Anlong Veng, Pol Pot's headquarters when in hiding after being ousted by the Vietnamese and also his cremation site. This route will get me into the mountains to the north and I might do some moto investigating around there before heading back into Siem Reap. Also, if you are still reading at this point then I will tell you that my ticket is purchased out of Asia. 19 April I fly out of Bangkok to NY. So westcoast peeps you will have to wait a bit longer after that, perhaps a week or two. Wow, what a trip. That would make it about a week over six months, hmmm. I shall reminisce later. Also, my birthday. I'm going to have my first birthday abroad, and in Cambodia no less. That's just great, another goal accomplished. Ok signing off. Bye.
Denny
I traveled to Pokhara with an American that I had met back a few days before in Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha. She was from Cali and had that laid back 'whateves' attitude that I, being a fellow 'westcoastie' knew all about. It was good to hear 'dude and 'awesome' again. I didn't know how long my stay in Pokhara was going to last. I only knew that November days were passing by quickly and the further into winter I reached, the colder that rarefied mountain air would become. I also knew of what tasty eye treats were waiting for me, seemingly, just a stones throw from nearly every vantage. The Annapurnas; an omnipotent phalanx of jagged splendor, standing over the entire region gloating with unreserved beauty. I knew to most folks this was their Everest. And in fact, had I seen them for myself, I probably would have been quite contained with little else thereafter. For those looking to get a closer look at the snow capped precipices, there are many world class treks in the area that lead backpack borne trekkers through the trees and over the hills for several days at a time towards each's own particular goal. A very popular route sends people on a 17 day circumambulation of the whole of the range, terminating in relative close proximity to the town. Another trek that takes about half that time leaves from Pokhara and journeys straight for the heart. In only a matter of days you find yourself within the inner sanctuary of the range and nestled within a 20,000ft cradle of rock and ice. Its a stabbing in and out route that has the added distinction of reaching ABC or Annapurna Base Camp. From this site, just as at the Everest Base Camp, professional mountaineers finalize their preparations and commence summit bids for several of the largest peaks on Earth. Nepal lays claim to nine of the world's 14 highest peaks, and this particular stretch owns the 10th highest, Annapurna I, and several other peaks of substantial importance and elevation. In all there are six peaks that rise above 23,oooft and numerous other lesser, yet similarly rewarding ascents for climbers to test their mettle. Its a mountaineering playground. The Annapurna peaks are among the world's most dangerous mountains to climb, with a fatality rate of around 40%, yet two thirds of all visitors to Nepal visit the Annapurna region to bare witness to its impressive beauty. I came to know these things prior to setting off on this adventure several months before. Long ago, though, I made the decision to save my energy and resources for the grand buffet that was the Everest trek; while in Pokhara restricting myself to the delicious appetizer nibble of meager day hikes. But I fully intended to see something while I was there, alas, weather had to play its unduly part.
I got off the bus on 10 November. It was cloudy. I remember on my last day in Chitwan a layer of clouds had rolled in and, subsequently, there was mention of rain. Unusual for the time of year, the dry season was at hand. "Damn," I thought, "I brought the clouds with me, they better disappear or I'm going to be pissed." Well, they never dispersed. My American travel buddy had ideas to go on an overnight trek to a popular high point with immaculate views but ended up scrapping the idea after a few days of cloudiness. So I was left to stare at gray skies. I knew full well that just beyond what I could see was what I wanted to see. A mandible of exposed incisors. White and sharp. Pretty maids lined all in a row. I really was hoping to lock eyes with the famous Machapuchare or also known as 'the fish tale' mountain. Its orientation within the range gives it prominence over the other more routine looking mountains, though standing at just under 7000m its considered a baby compared to its brethren. The peak itself is angular, rigid it resembles, perhaps, an inverted fish that was turned to granite. Sure, yeah, I can see it. Looks like this here . The mountain has been reserved off limits to climbing by the locals and it remains the only peak in Nepal left unconquered by man. An impenetrable sheet of gray kept this highly revered mountain from my gaze and no day hike was going to get me into range to give us a peak under. So I resigned to my bad fortune and turned my focus to soaking in the last few days of comfort and civilization that I had left. For in ten days I would be above 18,000ft and pushing my body further than I ever thought it could go.
To console myself over views unseen I occupied my time with morning croissants, tea, and the daily paper. The tea was good but not the Indian masala chai that I had come to crave. The croissants were tasty but not the chocolate filled award winner that I had found in Dharamsala, India. The news, well, I was riveted to the news. Nepal's political system is in terrible strife. Agitations led by the Maoists occur weekly. Everyday life for the Nepalese people has to come to learn to negotiate the current political climate on that given day. Some days there are road blocks; some days there strikes or 'bandhs', usually of the transportation sector. All means of transit gets shut down for an entire day when a bandh is called in order to force political action in Kathmandu. All this agitation gets set up by the Maoist organization. The Maoists are a communist political group that formed around 1994 to oppose the then current establishment, the centuries old Monarchy. Nepal was a kingdom at the time but was suffering from upheaval. The Maoist movement led a decade long "People's War" that eventually gave birth to a brand new system of democratic governorship. The popular Maoists promptly won the majority of seats in the newly formed Assembly through a democratic vote on 10 April, 2008. They lasted all of a year in power. In May of last year a coalition of all the major political parties formed and toppled the Maoists, barring them from any governmental duties. Today negotiations happen daily between the various political groups, and the Maoists, still with very large numbers in support, are on the outside looking in though are still throwing their weight around. The baby government is working on finalizing a new constitution for the country. A deadline was set long ago and has hereby lapsed several times; the latest target date was for right about now. The Maoist have influence over great numbers and when they feel there is not enough progress being made on a particular issue then a round of agitations are called and the country is effectively shut down for a given length of time. Upon reading and learning these things I became uneasy over the very real possibility of disruption of my upcoming travel. I needed to get to Kathmandu. I also had to take a flight out of the capitol out to the Everest trekking region. The possibility existed that a buy a flight and then miss it due to transportation difficulties. Or I could be grounded all together. I needed to stay on top of developments.
Also in the news was weather. Cloudy for the whole week. Rats. Then I caught an article in the international section that finally gave me insight to my cloud problem. Apparently there was a typhoon spinning and twirling its self off the west coast of India. By the time I had reached Pokhara it had already made landfall and was dumping unprecedented amounts of rain on northwest India. I had a some travel friends in Rajasthan, the desert, and they were giving me reports that rain was falling in areas that hadn't seen precipitation in ten years. Basically all of India was covered in cloud. Held in place by the northern great barrier that is the Himalayan mountain range. So all was clear to me now, even if the views weren't, and the storm was predicted to have dissipated by the end of the week. So I turned my attention to Kathmandu.
Wish I had seen this
or this
Machapuchra(fish tale) - the pointy one on the left
Then Annapurna III, IV, II from left to right.
I was staying in a guesthouse in the small collection of houses right on the lake bottom right. I climbed to this very spot on a day hike and couldn't see past the first hill.
This is Dhualagiri
Looking to the northwest from another highpoint near Pokhara. The 7th highest mountain in the world.
Cambodia today:
It's hot. Its pushing 95 Fahrenheit plus. It kinda has an Eastern Washington midsummer feel. Its only getting hotter too. April will be the hottest month before the rains come to flood the whole plain and sustain life for another year. Tomorrow I will make my first visit to Ankor Wat. I think a three day pass is all that I can afford. I have a personal motorbike so I will be able to get to the more distant temples with ease. I am also looking into my visa run which I must do on by the 18th. I might go to the northern border through Anlong Veng, Pol Pot's headquarters when in hiding after being ousted by the Vietnamese and also his cremation site. This route will get me into the mountains to the north and I might do some moto investigating around there before heading back into Siem Reap. Also, if you are still reading at this point then I will tell you that my ticket is purchased out of Asia. 19 April I fly out of Bangkok to NY. So westcoast peeps you will have to wait a bit longer after that, perhaps a week or two. Wow, what a trip. That would make it about a week over six months, hmmm. I shall reminisce later. Also, my birthday. I'm going to have my first birthday abroad, and in Cambodia no less. That's just great, another goal accomplished. Ok signing off. Bye.
Denny
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